I have gone to the ocean.I had been in the water before.Never! had I been thrown around so bad..lol.. Like I was crawling on my knees trying to hold onto the board the best I could. OOoops.. Over the falls once more.
This is just plan crazy, Well looks like i will not be doing any big wave riding soon.
As we drove home after that trip, he told me several more little secrets.Saying things like time the board and the wave as you try to get up. And when paddling out, (the duck dive and turtle.)sure helps allot now after yrs of practice.
Having the ability to read the waves and watch their movement. Seeing and feeling the rip. Having the time to just go out and play, and feel the board, aka catching waves laying down or on your knees.
Feeling the waves, seeing them, tasting the ocean a-lot ,the sun in my eyes all day. What could it be that keeps calling me back over and over again.
I never like to stay away from the water for to long. Sure will bring tears to my eyes,if somebody takes that salt air spray away. :)
My buddy tells me about hard rails,soft rails,50/50...At the time I could only look on and listen and study in books Internet as my time in the water with different boards has been limited. And his technical knowledge of surfing seemed endless.
Short boards,long boards, sup's, gun's, eggs, fish, tankers, min long's, and on and on he go'es.
information and ideas..flying around my head... shapes and ideas hoping to discover something new.
What has not been done?. What hasn't been done.? and why?
Endless Summer with the Duke. Pictures of the wood boards I see online so shiny and pretty and the statements made about how they ride.And my buddys consistent talk of wood boards..made me make the decision to go ahead and give it a try.
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